Every pair of jeans is designed to sit at certain place on your waist. This plays a role in comfort and aesthetics, because where the jean sits creates your perceived waistline, affecting proportions like torso and leg length, things you can play with to best complement your body. 

From a technical perspective, it refers to the rise, which is the measurement from the bottom of the crotch seam to the top of the waist band. One thing to keep in mind is that while the length of jeans can be altered by a tailor, the rise cannot.  

Below the waist 

Sometimes also referred to as low-rise, this style is meant to be worn below the natural waist.  

At the waist 

Also referred to as regular rise or classic rise, this is when the jeans sit at the natural waist, which is at or slightly above the natural waist.  

Above the waist  

This refers to jeans or pants that sit above the nature waist. This style was looked at as retro just a couple of years ago but has been seeing a recent resurgence.  

Here are a few tips to help you out on your next hunt for denim.   

Know What Leg Shape and Style You’re After  

Narrow down your search to couple of different leg shapes, colours, or brands so it’s easier to choose what you want to try on, ultimately making your search for jeans faster. 

Go For Quality  

As the old saying goes, it’s more expensive to be cheap twice. Jeans should last years, and if you go with a lower quality pair you’ll likely have to replace them sooner, spending more money in the long run.  

Stick with trusted brands you know or that friends have recommended to you. We always recommend Bootlegger, Silver, Buffalo, or Levi’s among others.  

Shop In Person  

Unless it’s a brand and style or cut you know for certain will fit you, ordering jeans online can be a bit of a gamble. Whether you’re buying new or thrifting, nothing compares to seeing how a pair of jeans feels and looks in real life. Bootlegger has dozens of stores across Canada to help you find your perfect fit in person.  

Measure Your Favorite Pair of Jeans  

Whether you’re buying new or used, this can be a game changer. Measuring a pair of jeans you already know fits you can help narrow your search. Start with the waist and inseam or go into more detail and get measurements for the rise, thigh, and cuff.  

Jeans tend to shrink over the first few washes, so when buying new, you may want to add an inch or two to the measurements of that coveted pair you already love, especially on the inseam and waist.  

Explore Other Styles and Features  

Aside from the classic cuts covered above, there are also other factors to take into consideration like distressing and washes. They can add character to your jeans by making them look and feel worn and lived-in. This affects the appearance and can also make them softer and more comfortable.  

The leg shape and rise are the key attribute to jeans, but there are many other variables to throw into the mix as well.  

Athletic Fit 

This means that a pair of jeans is designed with more room in the seat and thigh for thicker or muscular builds. Athletic is a term that can be a style on its own but is usually used as a prefix for other styles that are constructed for guys who love leg day (slim athletic fit, for example). This allows for more comfort and inclusive sizing. 

Wash 

This refers to the colour of your jeans ranging from light blues to indigos to black.  

Darker colours tend to feel more appropriate for semi-formal situations, but this isn’t a hard and fast rule. A midnight black pair of jeans can be almost indistinguishable from dress pants. Mid washes tend to be the typical indigo colour that first comes to mind when you think jeans. Light washes tend to look more casual but can also be dressed up if you feel like rocking a brighter outfit.  

Fades, Whiskers, and Distressing 

Nearly all jeans undergo a treatment and washing process to replicate the look that comes from everyday wear and tear. But it’s not just about the look. Since raw untreated denim tends to be very stiff, these treatments make jeans softer, lighter, and more comfortable. 

Fades  

These are the colour differences that occur when denim is worn and washed. Many brands now offer denim with pre-aged fading for instant vintage appeal and comfort, while natural fading can still occur from the unique way you wear them. 

Whiskering 

You may not recognize this term, but you definitely recognize the horizontal lines on the thighs and knees it refers to. Originally from wear, now many companies will incorporate pre-designed whiskers for instant character. 

Distressing 

The styling that puzzles grandparents everywhere: rips, tears, and frayed edges. Once a result of wear, distressing is often a deliberate design choice, offering an instant edgy, vintage vibe. 

Stitching 

Jeans’ distinct stitching and rivets isn’t just for aesthetics. It’s part of what makes them a durable and rugged essential. Here’s a quick 101 on the common types of stitching.  

Topstitching 

These are the distinct lines of stitches visible along the seams and pocket that enhance durability and contributes to that signature denim look.  

Rivets 

Another feature that gives jeans their distinct and iconic look, those small metal studs aren't just decorative; they strengthen seams and pocket corners that can be prone to tearing from everyday use. 

Bartacks  

This is another sewing technique common in denim. It’s an extra set of stitches that reinforce stress points, often in areas where rivets would be uncomfortable or scratch seating. For example, bartacks are used on the back pocket corners and other areas that are subject to extra stress and pulling.  

Back Pocket Signature 

They’re not on all jeans, but even so it’s probably the most recognizable stitching. Levi’s subtle pointed Arcuate, Silver’s S scroll, and Wrangler’s W are among the most iconic. While the fit is the most important part of the buying decision, this stitching contributes to the look of your jeans and is something to keep in mind if branding is important to you.  

Stitching colour 

We usually think of stitching in the classic gold-yellow threading. This has roots in the use of strong yarn during the formational period of jeans. Today, that colour is still used but there are many more options. 

However, for long-lasting trend-proof styles, we recommend sticking with that classic yellow or something that’s the same colour as the rest of the denim. If you go with white or heavily contrasting stitching, the jeans may look dated more quickly. 

Materials 

Jeans are traditionally made from denim, a strong woven (usually cotton) twill. Originally designed for American worker, it’s a durable fabric that’s transcended its working-class origins while stilling being a go-to protective for clothing used at hard working jobs. 

Over the years, stretch has become an important feature of denim, so today it’s common for jeans to also contain a small amount of elastane or spandex for stretch. They will also sometimes have a mix of polyester and other materials.